photo by Phil Mansfield
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Celebrity Dairy Goat Cheese
"Cheese: milk's leap towards immortality" - (Cliffton Fadiman).
We're regularly asked - "do we still eat our own cheese?" Simply
- Yes! In subtle ways - its always different, and still interesting after
12 years.
Cast of Characters -
The regulars. All of our cheese starts off the same way - some ends up as plain and herb-coated fresh Montrachet
style logs, but mostly as whey. Speaking of whey - 85% of the milk ends up that way. Fed back to the does - they
drink it up and haul it away.
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Montrachet: Fresh (2-10 days old) 1 lb logs
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- Plain |
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- Herb coated |
Garbo (garlic, basil, pepper),
Party (parseley, basil, chives, onion)
Dill
Rosemary
Paprika-Garlic |
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- au Poivre |
Peppertop - (restaurant grind) black pepper
Confetti - (coarse cracked red, green, white, & black peppercorns) |
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Serendipity: fresh-drained curd (1-2 days
old) in . deli containers or 2 lb zip-lock bags
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- Plain |
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- Herbed |
Garbo, Party, Dill, Curry, and Jalapeño (my favorite) |
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- Sweet |
with preserves - Apricot, Peach, or Raspberry |
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Cameo Appearances: seen from time to time
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- Feta |
Fresh, w/ Jalapeños, &
Beta Feta - Feta, (but Betta) - packed in olive oil w/herbs |
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- Dried |
Nuggets of dehydrated chèvre - having
a nutty Parmesan-like intensity |
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Mold-Ripened: (new in 2000) - the addition of white and
blue molds and time spent in our aging room give these cheeses character
and complexity
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-Silk Hope |
A hand-ladled pyramid: coated with vegetable ash and
mold-ripened to a snowy white finish |
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- Brie |
A hand-ladled flat cylinder: mold-ripened |
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-Cloud |
A rough ball shape: wild-ripened with blue and white
molds |
note - Silk Hope won a third place Aged Goat Cheese at The American
Cheese Society's annual cheese competition 10 Aug, 2000, in St. Helena,
CA
Current
Performances -
Part of our act is hand delivering our cheese to customers - be they individuals at local farm markets, or nearby
restaurants or grocery stores along the local axis running from Siler City & Pittsboro, through Chapel Hill
to Durham, North Carolina. The stores and restaurants that have sought out our cheese are proud of its local origin
and quality, and usually give us attribution on their labels and menus.
Farm Markets - look for Fleming at the Chapel Hill/Carrboro
Farmers' Market - every Saturday morning 7:00-12:00. The Saturday market
runs from mid-March until the Saturday before Christmas.
Grocery Stores - Whole Foods Market (aka - Wellspring
Grocery) (Chapel Hill, Durham, and and Raleigh) all carry our cheese.
In Chapel Hill, both the Weaver Street Markets (Carrboro and Southern
VIllage) have it.
Restaurants - The folks at Aurora Restaurant in Chapel
Hill have used our cheese faithfully for almost 10 years now, and offered
us great support and encouragement along the way. Other Chapel Hill
restaurants using it regulary include the Crooks' Corner, and Elaine's.
In Durham try Ben & Karen Barker's Magnolia Grill. You'll also find
it at Anotherthyme, Nana's and Duke's Washington Duke Inn. We don't
have any restaurant customers in Raleigh - but if you have a favorite
restaurant inside the beltway - bug them.
The Cheese Owners Manual -
Getting it home - How do you get our cheese home? Soft young cheeses like to be cool, but will tolerate
some time at ambient temperatures. Our rule of thumb is - if your are comfortable, so is the cheese. So in the
heat of summer - if your aren't heading right home to store the cheese carry it with you, but at least don't leave
it in the car. Other times of year are more forgiving.
Seasoned farm market customers bring a cooler and ice packs with them
to the farm market during the heat of summer. This way they can shop
at the market early to get the best quality and selection, and still
be able to stop for brunch with friends or run other errands without
compromising the quality of their food purchases. One couple proudly
showed Fleming a cooler they had bought just for carrying our cheese
home in style, yet still allowing time for that important Saturday morning
coffee stop at Weaver Street Market: it was an insulated wine bag with
a frozen ice insert! Holds 3 logs of cheese, or one wine bottle (take
your pick) Cool idea.
How long will it keep in the fridge? - The quick answer is: Several weeks - if packaged properly. In its
natural life cycle cheese gradually dries out as it ages. Small cheeses have shorter aging periods than larger
ones. Ours (under a pound) have a natural aging period of only 3-6 weeks.
Your challenge is to guide this process in your fridge - which is both colder and dryer than an ideal cheese
aging room. The waxed parchment deli paper we use to wrap the cheese retards evaporation, thus compensating the
low humidity level in your fridge. Cheese wrapped this way will gradually age - getting dryer, and with a more
definite flavor. Left alone, it dries up into a small shriveled rock. (We know - pieces of cheese routinely flee
captivity to the freedom to be found in a refrigerator's dark recesses - only to be recaptured during that great
event - the annual refrigerator cleaning) Don't throw these out! What you have created is an aged grating cheese.
Take credit for your patience and self-discipline, and grate these rocks as a garnish for salads and pasta dishes..
The worst thing you can do is to wrap the cheese in plastic - as this totally arrests the aging process. After
a week, cheese wrapped this way will develop a butterfat "sweat" on the surface, and often start growing
a black mold (poile de chat - or cat hair - a sign of too high humidity) that causes a bitter taste.
Will it Freeze? - yes - definitely! If you are stocking up on cheese in the Fall to carry you over the winter
when the goats are pregnant, and there's no milk to make cheese from - pop your cheese into the freezer. The plastic
deli cups used to package our soft Serendipity spreads are a perfect freezer container. However - the chèvre
logs need to be put into freezer quality zip-lock bags. For best results - thaw the cheese slowly in your fridge
overnight. After thawing, the cheese's flavor is unchanged. When pressed for time we've even thawed the cheese
in a microwave oven - but this insult may make its texture a bit grainy. Better to plan ahead.
Hint: before freezing - cut the chèvre logs into smaller size pieces, and re-wrap in
deli paper. This way you can remove and thaw just the amount of cheese you'll need later. Use a length of dental
floss to cut the cheese: it leaves a clean sharp surface that both looks neat, and minimizes exposure to the air.
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